Butterick 5152 Retro '48 Robe

Confession - I found this pattern in early February, my birthday month, and fell hard for it.  Happens that 1948 is my birthday year. The pattern reminds me of those ladies in early TV sitcoms who get up in the morning looking swell, and in movies of the 40's, who spend the day in a floaty housecoat until dressing for an evening of dining and dancing (with Fred Astaire). Oh, and Lucy!

Since zip locking my business suits, I've been looking for clothes that help me achieve 'swell' and keep it all day. This as opposed to jeans or yoga pants or, ouch, pajama bottoms and a tee shirt. The Serendipity kimono dress works well for me, and this retro robe (let's call it a housecoat) is another keeper.

I knew right away I would bypass the tie belt and modify the pattern with an inset waistband. It is such a good look and so classic. I am not very fussy and have little patience for hooks and inside ties on wraps. A waistband looks good coming and going, and the gathers on the back bodice of the pattern play beautifully into the higher waistline. (waistband how-to at the end of the post).

This red fabric is Tutti Fruitti Small Polka Dot from JoAnns. I have not sewn it before and ordered it online, so I was unsure of what I was getting. At first it seemed a bit strange. It's like a heat-pressed seersucker, a bit stiff, even after laundering. And it kind of dulls a sewing machine needle! Pull out stitches and you have holes, they are not going to close up. I really almost gave up on it after stitching a few pieces. But in the end, it's actually very comfortable, very cool, and does not wrinkle at all - I've grown fond of it and will probably buy some more of this funky fabric!

This beautiful fabric is from Art Gallery Moorish Blossoms line. I love their fabrics, very smooth cotton prints that launder nicely and hold their vibrant colors so well. Can be a bit pricey for a 5 yard item, but I'm always on the lookout for Art Gallery on sale.

Comments on the pattern:

I sewed a size 14, my usual size. My muslin was sewn with the original waist, not modified, so I do know that the back and front bodice length are a good fit for me. I am a bit long in the torso, so this might be a flag for someone else. The sleeves are comfortable and do not pull across the back, another plus for me as I have broad shoulders as well. The skirt has ample hem allowance, no problem at 5'7".

The front bodice and yoke are a bit tricky. The yoke is inset on a curve inside the bodice armhole edge and has a mitered corner. Fortunately the pattern pieces go together well, but a caution not to stretch the curved cuts out of shape. I basted generously and pressed in sew lines before stitching the miters and curves. Then I  used 1/2" steam-a-seam to turn in the yoke facing edges, again to prevent stretching when I handled the fabric.

There are so many ways to modify this pattern, not just for a housecoat, how about a wrap dress! For now, I'll be making a couple more for 'at home', it's just my style.

Here's how I managed the inset waistband...

Spring in the garden

And now the orchid and hoya are in bloom.

 

Light please!

I need light where I am sewing, right there on the pressure foot! I remember when sewing machines had incandescent light bulbs that really lit this area. No more! Now we have these little LED bulbs that save soooo much energy but cause all of us beautiful sewists to have wrinkles between our brows and put our faces right up there against the machine. The LED light is weak, wimpy, just not enough. And no matter what I do, special daylight lamp, bendable desk lamp, so on and so on, I cannot see my sewing area without some awful shadow from the arch of my machine itself!

Solution found, and it was so much fun. I was in IKEA, danger zone, with my daughter. The lighting department. And found this so very clever light from Jansjo. I got the one with a base, it also comes with a clip-on option. Either way. Notice that I have it wrapping the front of my machine (I purposely turned off other lights to take these pics so you can see what the lamp does). No shadow on my pressure foot area, and it is not in my way at all.  I just do not notice it when I am sewing. It works with my serger just as well. I am ecstatic and highly recommend this snakey little light to my sewist friends! And scrapbookers and crafters... I got the the black but it comes in colors too, of course, this is IKEA -  Here!

Pull-on pants

What's not to love about pull-on pants! Comfort. Convenience. Oh…comfort.

Pull-on does not mean without style - check out any fashion catalog, there they are. Seems like just a few basic styles: drawstring and/or elastic waist, various pocket treatments (I like the cargo pockets), and lots of ways to gather the pants hem. hmmm. Not sure about that one...

I live in Florida, so I've had lots and lots of pull-on pants. That comfort thing. In the end, my low-bar requirements are:

. The gathers at the waist do not cause clown-like volume in the pants legs.

. The crotch is not mid-way to my knee.

. If I wear a mid-hip length top, I have a smooth line across the front and rear view.

. No indentation at that dreadful hip/upper thigh place!

And I do have fabric preferences, again mine are based on where I live. I like pull-on pants in linen/rayon blend. If I want jeans, I buy jeans - my sewing skills are just not going there! My approach to linen blends: wash at least 2 times in warm water, and machine dry, before cutting a pattern. Then enjoy the easy life of machine wash and dry. I've found some terrific blends at both JoAnn’s and Fashion Fabrics Club.

Back to the pull-on pants plan. What style? For sure pants in full-length. Nothing is more elegant than a long wide-leg linen pant. Take me anywhere, long tank, caftan, tunic, jacket, long cabled sweater, scarf, knit cap. So that is one. What else? Cropped. Only a few inches above the ankle, I think cropped pants are so Mediterranean. And so flattering while being a bit cooler than long pants. Visualize cropped pants with espadrilles, wide brim hats, flowing lawn tunics…snap, wake up, Coco.

What I do not sew: Capri’s and shorts, because they do not suit me!

In my closet, for tops, I have wonderful knit pieces, tunics and long sweaters and wraps. But not one blouse. So on my Inspiration Board I have a bunch of blouses and tops that are chosen with pull-on pants in mind.

My pull-on pant plan includes both long and cropped pants in basic colors (and I need all of these): Natural, brown, black, and white. And I admit to falling for a dusty pink linen as well.

I’m sewing and think I have just the right pattern after a couple muslins…back with more later!

McCalls 6488 Sundress

Just take me and put in front of a poster of the Cote d'Azur...I love this dress! When McCall came out with #6488 this spring, I was so going for it.

I've tried other u-necks that left me very strangled and/or hung up under my arms. hmmmm. That angled line from under the arm to somewhere on the chest is not easily corrected if it does not work just right with the neck and back.

So far I've made this pattern in a muted lime green and in a dusty rose, both medium weight rayon/linen blends. The drape is really key, so I wanted to stay away from anything stiff. Not for knits unless you plan to use a camisole or strapless bra.

I sewed this in size small, no adjustments at all. The pattern allowed 4" of hem allowance, which for me was great. I like my dresses to the floor. The fabric allowance directions were correct. This is a really easy sew and a dream to wear.

Orchids kept in trees

Some of my orchids have bloomed for years, others are just wishful remnants tucked into the crotch of a branch. All are in a strawberry guava tree that I planted not long after moving here near the Everglades. The guava has beautiful shiny, peeling bark, much loved by the orchids. They spread their gray-green roots down, through, and around it.  I am finding signs that the orchids will be blooming again soon.