Monday, December 22, 2014

McCalls 6996 - A long cardigan at last!



I'm laughing in this pic - I don't usually open a post with shot of this side of a garment. But this cardigan has such a cute skirted back!

Cardigans are perfect for Florida winters and trips to the grocery (I get so cold in there). I have a favorite pattern for short ones, but finding a long cardigan has been hard! I just don't want lots of drapey folds or layered ruffles down my front.

I made View B, which has very nice clean lines, a lovely raised and gathered back neckline, and slim sleeves. The back skirt is slightly flared and beautifully curved right at the waistline.



I sewed a size large in a mini-rib ponte knit from JoAnns. It's almost a sweater knit, very light. The last of my grey fabric - yea! But I might keep this one, I really like it.

A note on sewing: I used the elastic/lightening stitch on all my seams, and cut/serged them to finish. The shoulders are reinforced with twill tape (I don't use elastane - allergy). And the hems are simply turned and topstitched. May I say I love my Juki F600 - it sews knits beautifully. I haven't used steam-a-seam to do hems since I got this machine. And the elastic stitch is perfect. Sigh.
 


My only alteration was to remove a little of the downward slope at the enter front, as shown by my red lines in the line art. The design is a little easier to see on the inside, on Emile:


More pics! I'm also wearing True Bias Hudson pants in black ITY knit - these are like my fuller leg version. They feel like silk, and the poly/rayon knit does not cling to them at all.




Fun project, interesting to sew, and a keeper. Ciao! Coco

Thursday, December 11, 2014

Cali Faye Gardenia Dress - 3 times!


Oh, it feels so good to sew and take pictures and write a blog post!!

First, thank you all for the lovely comments on Ashley and Darrin's engagement. They are so excited. And her ring is exquisite :-) The wedding date is now February 21, firm, which is nice. More time to enjoy the engagement feelings and activities.

Gosh, I've been sort of absent for a while. But recovering from being unwell for 6 months has taken some time and lots of rest. But I'm so much better. Feels so good. I'll put a little info on what happened at the end of this post...

Meanwhile, what a super cute dress. I found this on Kollabora, just zipping along looking at projects. And ordered the PDF download right away (there is a version for girls as well). I can't find a line art pic anywhere, so I'll try to describe: the front bodice is two-piece, with a slight sweetheart seam below the neckline and a raised front curve. The back bodice has a dipped curve ending just around the waistline. And the dress has nice 3/4 length sleeves. 



The bust conundrum:
Incredibly for any pattern, this one comes in sizes XXS - XXL - but that is a little misleading :-) The associated bust range is 30" - 39.5".  Whose bust - that of the dress, my bust? What size to use? A clue from Cali Faye: the model's bust is 33.5", and she is wearing a size Small, bust 31.5". OK, I followed suit. My bust is 37.5", so I drafted the size Large, bust 36". And it worked - but I do wish pattern makers could be specific on this point.

(Before I forget, for reference, I'm 5'7 1/2" and wear a size 14/40 just about all the time).

This mid-weight cotton/spandex from Girl Charlee (love, love) is a great weight for this dress. I only made two changes changes on this first version:

  • Added an inch to the skirt length. 
  • Lowered the curve of the front bodice edge by 1" at center front, cured out to the side seams. It would be great for a baby bump the other way, but IMHO, looks nicer a little lower.
I was very surprised that the bodice, front and back, was long enough for me. I am accustomed to adding 1.5" inches for my height - might be a caution for short waists...



I love this dress! While in JoAnn's ages ago, I found a piece of camo cotton/lycra knit (and haven't seen it since, in the store or online). And I've wanted to sew it ever since Angela of Collected Yarns made her camo maxi in August. Voila!


On this version I removed the sweetheart seam from the front bodice, drafting it as one easy piece, and used elbow length sleeves.


And now it's jingle bells time! Again from Girl Charlee, a cotton/poly knit. 






This was fun. Ciao! Coco

A little info on what kept me down...

Friday, November 28, 2014

Here comes the Bride!


Ashley and Darrin are engaged! 

I should have posted this sooner (like 2 or 3 weeks ago) but there's been a flurry of visiting, looking at dresses, then at patterns and fabric, and calling back and forth. A few tears. Lots of thanks for many blessings.

My heart is full. I am so very happy for these two wonderful people who enhance my life and love one another so well.

Ashley and Darrin met 3 1/2 years ago, and the sun seemed to shine on them from the beginning...

First Date

Believe me, I was thrilled. Ashley is such a warm and outgoing person, friends everywhere, but that special one seemed just over the horizon...













Darrin is special. Fun, serious, loving, quiet, responsible, dependable, loyal, and very caring. 


He puts a smile on my girl's face every day. And she puts one on his as well. 


Wedding day is January 31, and yes, Ashley and I are making her dress together! More on that later...

Bye for now, Coco

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Burda Style Athletic/Bomber Jacket!


Gosh, it seems like forever since I posted.  I just haven't been well. Short hospital stay the first week of October, and it has taken a while to get back on my feet. Aargh.

When I came home, Ashley and D. 'moved' the loft downstairs into the dining area, and I've actually enjoyed a little sewing. And today Emile took on some modeling for me.

This bomber jacket is so cute - Burda Style calls it an athletic jacket, maybe because the sleeve is not set-in. I've been wanting to sew one for months, but just couldn't settle on a pattern.

Burda Style 05/2014 #110

I finally chose this pattern, out of the many out there, for a couple reasons: it's unlined, and it has a round neck with no ribbing. I think the ribbing on my neck would make me crazy :-)


I also thought I might be able to adapt the band on this pattern for a button band, since I don't use zippers. In the end, I just redrafted the front edge:

  • I extended the front and front self-facing by 1.5" to form the button band area. 
  • And added the 'classic' button square at the ends of the waistband ribbing.



Another change I made...I ended up using faux welt pockets. I originally sewed in the pocket bags, but didn't like them. So chop chop!



Inside views..

I used a corded denim, which is a little stiff at this point after only one washing. It's a little ravelly, so all the seams are serged or bound.




Loving these button snaps...



Behind every good button snap there's a good tool, and believe me, this one is worth every nickel it cost me. It does all the work - I'm so excited to have this hunk of metal! Many many thanks to Anne, at Clothing Engineer, who has a wonderful review and tutorial on the use of this fantastic tool.


Pres-n-Snap, from Sailrite
15mm ring snaps, Pacific Trimming

I'm going to put snap buttons on everything!!

One last sewing note. I didn't go for ribbing - I used remnant cotton/spandex jersey knit for my cuffs and waistband - works like a charm. 

This was an interesting project, but it turns out that this grey jacket doesn't match anything in my wardrobe! So funny...

Ciao! Coco