MOB Dress - A tale of two tops

Only three weeks left before the big day, and I'm working on my final MOB dresses. Yes. Dresses, plural. I've chosen two designs and two fabrics!

But I'm laughing right now, so all is OK.

The boutonnieres at left are for the gents in the wedding party. I love them. Ashley was so excited to find these, offered by a crafter in the Ukraine. They're perfect for her latte/country pink color theme and reflect the ambiance that she and Darrin want to create.

I've actually completed all the fitting and muslins for the hardest part of the two dresses - the bodice. The skirts are easy! The two dress designs have a lot in common: a raised waist, rounded neckline, 3/4 length sleeves, and a long skirt gathered into the bodice. I tentatively plan a narrow sash-style band covering the bodice/skirt seam. Maybe even with a small bow and/or long ties in the back. For the skirt, well, either black or self-fabric.

Here's a look at the 'two tops'. This fabric is Floral/Aztec Print in a cotton/linen blend, from FabricMart. It's mid-weight, doesn't need a lining, and is the more casual of the two fabrics I'm considering.

First bodice, based on the Salme Pleated TShirt (the blue marks are chalk lines ):

My bodice has 3 pleats plus length for adding the skirt.The sleeves are extended with a band that will be hemmed to echo the pleats. The back is plain and has no darts.

And the second bodice, based on the one I used for my Tiered Maxi dress:

The front has side and vertical darts, and the back is plain. I redrafted the armscye using the Salme pattern and used the sleeves from that pattern as well, again with additional length.

Both tops have faced necklines, instead of binding.  I confess I'm always bothered by the raw edge of the hem on a facing, so I finish it first on the serger. Picky, but only takes a minute to do. It also makes the fold on the curved edge a lot easier! (yes, that's very high-tech masking tape on my needle plate, marked at 5/8" and 1" with a fine-tip Sharpie. I keep a roll in the loft.)

Back to the sewing loft for the weekend. Tennis, football, old Oscar-winning movies on TCM - what could be better. Hope yours is nice as well.

Ciao! Coco

August Garment of the Month - Playsuit plan...

August, and time to think about my Garment of the Month. Since it is so wet and hot and buggy and generally awful outside, I think I'll just stretch my already bent mind and sew something really challenging! A playsuit jumpsuit...

Got to stay on trend, right? More than that, I really like jumpsuits. They remind me of the 80's, when I wore them a lot. Well, as much as my budget allowed - the long ones, with buckles and cargo pockets and zippers, done in cottons and khakis, could be expensive! 

In the last two years I've managed to collect four jumpsuit patterns, and I've even put a few on my Pinterest board. I just haven't sewn one.

Chicken.

I finally settled on this pattern from Salme. I really like the off-shoulder 'cap' sleeve, pockets, and belted waist. It also looks a little more finished than many of the patterns coming out from the Big 4 this summer.

And I found this cute calico fabric, Domestic Bliss, from eQuilter. It's about as close as I'll come to sewing a 'sewing theme' fabric - something I've always wanted to do, but this is the first print I've liked.

In case you're wondering, no, I won't be doing shorts! I like long jumpsuits, so I'll be doing my usual redrafting thing. But I think it's going to be a fun project.

Bye for now! Coco

Salme Pleated T-Shirt - A merry make for May!

Adorable! this little shirt turned out to be everything I was hoping it would be. Comfy, fresh, and different. Something new for spring and summer and my May Garment of the Month.

This is my muslin, but I went ahead and did it in a very nice white broadcloth from Monika Chiang, by way of Fabric Mart. It is such a nice weight for a blouse and has a wonderful hand and finish. Feels a bit like tissue linen. Glad I ordered 4 yards :-)

I'm in love with the pleats...they start just above my bust apex, but I imagine the placement will be different for everyone. They're 1" deep, 1" apart, and on the front only. Super easy to do - just fold on the right side and stitch.

Since the needleplate on my machine doesn't have a 1" marking, I put a piece of masking tape across it to make a guide for sewing the pleats. I do this a lot, even for the markings I do have, if I'm doing parallel rows.

Sewing notes and a couple little changes to the pattern ...

I drafted my pattern from the size 12 (I'm 5'7", 36.5" bust), but cured the side seams out to size 16 at the bottom/hip. I also drew my pattern with 1/2" seam allowances, instead of the recommended 3/8" (seam allowances are not included in the pattern). Just my preference. All my seams are stitched and then serged together to finish.

The neckline was just too high for me, much higher than it looks on the envelope. I think it would look nice under a suit jacket, but this is Florida and I'm retired, so I lowered it, back and front, and drafted new facings for both.

Lowered 2.5"

Lowered .5"

The inside front and back...

And I drafted new sleeves, a la Duchess of Cambridge, i.e., elbow length. Great look! I simply added 4.5" to the length and drew the side edges straight and parallel. The hems on both the sleeves and the blouse are finished at 1", to echo the 1" pleats.

On both the original front neckline and my new one, I have a small gaping issue. That hollow chest thing :-) I'll address it in my next version with a redraft to take up the extra bit. 

For a woven blouse without bust darts, this works really well! I have no issues with diagonal lines or pulling at the bust or arm.

And it looks good worn out, too...great length.

Saw a centipede on the patio...I do not like them! but if they get in the house I usually just pick them up and put them back outside. Gosh, I'm nice.

How about those cargo jeans? Will blog them soon, I have another pair in a fun floral. Ah, summertime.

Ciao! Coco