Spring/Summer Palette Challenge - My Moodboard!

So into the idea of a mini-season plan. I've been kind of doing this, taking notes, ordering something here, something there. But this is better. The Spring/Summer Palette Challenge is a perfect little thing to get my ideas pulled together...and have some pretties at the end of it.

Ta dum. My Moodboard.

I love it. It really reflects my passion for resonant tropical colors, long flowing styles, large florals, and graceful silhouettes. I adore turquoise and pinks and magentas and purples as well, but am picky picky picky on these so just hinted in the fabric swatches.

No crayon colors here. I hope you enjoy my moodboard and will try to tie my projects back as I finish them. Ciao!

Me-Made in May!!

This is crazy good! I am not sure how well I will do - the goal is to wear a me-made garment every day in May. I don't think I even have 30 outfits to wear, much less 30 me-made garments. We will definitely be seeing some duplicates and maybe some interesting interpretive takes on this! My pledge:

I, Coco, endeavour to wear me-made garments each day for the duration of May 2012.

Well, it is signed, so happy!  Coco

Pyjama Party!

Just the thing...Did You Make That? is hosting a Pyjama Party! Loads of lovely guys and gals are coming, cannot wait for the big reveals on April 28. Everyone is doing a PJ bottom, sets are optional. Here's my pick:

Off for fabric tomorrow, cotton for sure, hoping for something a little funky. The robe is so adorable!

Taxes and sewing

Of course I've known for 2 months that I would have to write my Uncle Sam a check...but I just put it out of my mind. I've been busy. LOL. But in the last week I have felt a little anxiety creep up on me, just enough to make me order, yes, 3 pieces of fabric and 5 patterns. Well, I admit, somehow I'm going backwards on this tax thing!

Last night I swore to myself, no more sewing or buying until the tax return is done and paid for. There. And I just did it.

Yes, I've written a check. But please note - my therapy is in place - I have 3 pieces of fabric and 5 patterns to look forward to.  It all works out, I am happy as a clam!

p.s. I would never ever allow one of my children to use this kind of logic on me...

Simplicity 7520 Tie-On Dress

What fun! I made this OOP tie-on dress pattern in the '70s, when I was in college in New Jersey, and remember wearing it on vacation to Sanibel Island, Florida. My original pattern is long gone, but I found this on Lanetzliving.net. What a surprise - it was the only one and in my size. Meant to be.

And of course I sewed the long version. It fits right into my love of long dresses with simple lines - perfect for large colorful prints, easy to wear, and comfortable in our Florida climate (we have this humidity thing... ).

The front of the dress has soft gathering into a square bodice, which matches a plain square back. Wide straps front and back are knotted very comfortably at the shoulder. The straps are wide enough to hide an undergarment strap! And both versions of the dress have side seam pockets.

The beautiful print fabric is 100% cotton tropical shirting from JoAnns. It is a perfect weight for a maxi dress, a bit heavier than a quilting cotton, and has a very smooth hand. The colors are very even and the black is dense. It came out of pre-wash with no sign of a center fold line from the bolt, not even a crease! Pretty good for a cotton, remarkable for a black cotton. Made me happy since the dress pieces are wider than 21" and would show a fold mark. I am really glad I ordered a second piece in an orange print for a tunic-length blouse - should be perfect.

The pattern says 'Jiffy' but I managed to add an hour or more to the sewing time because I am SO PICKY! 

hmmm. If picky is facing the gathered bodice inset,

Sewing side seams BEFORE putting on the armhole facing

Pulling thread tails to the inside and hiding them, rather than backstitch in topstitching...

And finishing all the inside seams (just feels good and wears longer)!

The dress is such a nice fit. I sewed a medium, but this is a '70's pattern. I would sew a small now and probably have too much fabric in the armscye. Sizing has changed!

 I just finished this, have worn it, love it, and want another one. Am so spoiled.  

Butterick 5152 Retro '48 Robe

Confession - I found this pattern in early February, my birthday month, and fell hard for it.  Happens that 1948 is my birthday year. The pattern reminds me of those ladies in early TV sitcoms who get up in the morning looking swell, and in movies of the 40's, who spend the day in a floaty housecoat until dressing for an evening of dining and dancing (with Fred Astaire). Oh, and Lucy!

Since zip locking my business suits, I've been looking for clothes that help me achieve 'swell' and keep it all day. This as opposed to jeans or yoga pants or, ouch, pajama bottoms and a tee shirt. The Serendipity kimono dress works well for me, and this retro robe (let's call it a housecoat) is another keeper.

I knew right away I would bypass the tie belt and modify the pattern with an inset waistband. It is such a good look and so classic. I am not very fussy and have little patience for hooks and inside ties on wraps. A waistband looks good coming and going, and the gathers on the back bodice of the pattern play beautifully into the higher waistline. (waistband how-to at the end of the post).

This red fabric is Tutti Fruitti Small Polka Dot from JoAnns. I have not sewn it before and ordered it online, so I was unsure of what I was getting. At first it seemed a bit strange. It's like a heat-pressed seersucker, a bit stiff, even after laundering. And it kind of dulls a sewing machine needle! Pull out stitches and you have holes, they are not going to close up. I really almost gave up on it after stitching a few pieces. But in the end, it's actually very comfortable, very cool, and does not wrinkle at all - I've grown fond of it and will probably buy some more of this funky fabric!

This beautiful fabric is from Art Gallery Moorish Blossoms line. I love their fabrics, very smooth cotton prints that launder nicely and hold their vibrant colors so well. Can be a bit pricey for a 5 yard item, but I'm always on the lookout for Art Gallery on sale.

Comments on the pattern:

I sewed a size 14, my usual size. My muslin was sewn with the original waist, not modified, so I do know that the back and front bodice length are a good fit for me. I am a bit long in the torso, so this might be a flag for someone else. The sleeves are comfortable and do not pull across the back, another plus for me as I have broad shoulders as well. The skirt has ample hem allowance, no problem at 5'7".

The front bodice and yoke are a bit tricky. The yoke is inset on a curve inside the bodice armhole edge and has a mitered corner. Fortunately the pattern pieces go together well, but a caution not to stretch the curved cuts out of shape. I basted generously and pressed in sew lines before stitching the miters and curves. Then I  used 1/2" steam-a-seam to turn in the yoke facing edges, again to prevent stretching when I handled the fabric.

There are so many ways to modify this pattern, not just for a housecoat, how about a wrap dress! For now, I'll be making a couple more for 'at home', it's just my style.

Here's how I managed the inset waistband...