Tuesday, May 19, 2015

BurdaStyle 03/2012 #108C Knot Front Dress

A fumble. I don't often write about a wadder (how depressing), but this dress is worth a look, wadder or not. I'm in a really fair mood this morning - but it's because I've already cried and fussed over this one.

I love this look! and had such high expectations. There are some really cute makes out there in blogger land. My favorites are this one by Deborah at The Tropical Sewist, done with an embroidered fabric. And these chevron print versions by Make Me Studio and The Selfish Seamstress .

And check out the RTW versions I found:


Dries Van Noten 

So I went for it. There was a huge investment in prepping this pattern. I used the download PDF, which meant I did a lot of paper cutting and taping (which I enjoy. I also love paper dolls, even now). Then came the drafting of the pattern pieces. The front piece goes from shoulder to hem - it's long and wide! Thank goodness the back has a separate bodice and skirt. The pattern also has lining and facing pieces. And, yes, it ate up 5 yards of 55" wide cotton lawn.

I finished the dress up to the point of basting the side seams, and then I stopped. Without a side zipper, it's too tight to fit over my dress form, but I can put it on over my head without a problem.

And actually it's very pretty. I just can't stand how it feels - it's the futzy, fussy knot business at the front! So I don't want to model it.

Because it is a nice pattern and might work really well for someone else, here are my sewing notes:
  • The pattern is sized for 'tall' ladies, perfect for me at 5'7". I sewed the 84, which is corresponds to regular size 42. I usually cut a size 40 in BurdaStyle, but this pattern is slim through the bodice and upper skirt, so I sized up. 
  • The back bodice is a little wide for me at the neckline. Maybe by 1/2", which could be fixed easily.
  • The front armhole is reinforced with a narrow strip of bias interfacing. Burda refers to this as Vilene/Pellon G 785. Mystery to me! I used 1/2" wide strips of bias-cut tricot knit fusible interfacing - worked fine.
  • I used Symphony broadcloth for my lining. A more slippery lining would definitely make the twist knot easier to form and adjust.

Front lining, also showing the interfacing strip on the armhole edge.
It was HARD to find the right side of my fabric, both sides have dense color.
I put a small pin on the right side of each pattern piece as I cut it out.

Front bodice inside

Back bodice inside

Burda gives this pattern an Intermediate difficulty rating, which I think is about right. The design is also available in a short version, BurdaStyle 03/2012 #108B, which also includes a free download PDF of the sewing instructions. The patterns themselves are the same. The instructions might be good reading ahead of purchasing the pattern :-)

And I'm off to other projects!

Ciao - Coco


  1. Beautiful pattern and fabric choice! Sorry it didn't turn out like you had wished. I post my mistakes and it's good because most of us are disappointed at times. The newbies need to know that it happens so they'll continue sewing.

  2. They can't all be winners- I hope you can salvage thefabric

  3. I feel for you. Its especially disappointing when you have high hopes for a project.
    Chin up!!

  4. I feel for you. Its especially disappointing when you have high hopes for a project.
    Chin up!!

  5. Wow quite the print but very pretty. I use plain old chalkboard chalk to make an X on the "wrong" side of fabric that is the same front and back. When I do my pattern marks and then remove the pattern is when I mark the wrong sides. Sometimes pattern piece are confusing enough that the mark is an arrow letting me know top from bottom!
    And I loved your Morris jacket which is the post I went to comment on. I have this pattern waiting for me to piece it together.


I love it that you came by...and thank you for your comments! Coco