This is my muslin, but I went ahead and did it in a very nice white broadcloth from Monika Chiang, by way of Fabric Mart. It is such a nice weight for a blouse and has a wonderful hand and finish. Feels a bit like tissue linen. Glad I ordered 4 yards :-)
I'm in love with the pleats...they start just above my bust apex, but I imagine the placement will be different for everyone. They're 1" deep, 1" apart, and on the front only. Super easy to do - just fold on the right side and stitch.
Since the needleplate on my machine doesn't have a 1" marking, I put a piece of masking tape across it to make a guide for sewing the pleats. I do this a lot, even for the markings I do have, if I'm doing parallel rows.
I drafted my pattern from the size 12 (I'm 5'7", 36.5" bust), but cured the side seams out to size 16 at the bottom/hip. I also drew my pattern with 1/2" seam allowances, instead of the recommended 3/8" (seam allowances are not included in the pattern). Just my preference. All my seams are stitched and then serged together to finish.
The neckline was just too high for me, much higher than it looks on the envelope. I think it would look nice under a suit jacket, but this is Florida and I'm retired, so I lowered it, back and front, and drafted new facings for both.
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| Lowered 2.5" |
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| Lowered .5" |
The inside front and back...
And I drafted new sleeves, a la Duchess of Cambridge, i.e., elbow length. Great look! I simply added 4.5" to the length and drew the side edges straight and parallel. The hems on both the sleeves and the blouse are finished at 1", to echo the 1" pleats.
On both the original front neckline and my new one, I have a small gaping issue. That hollow chest thing :-) I'll address it in my next version with a redraft to take up the extra bit.
For a woven blouse without bust darts, this works really well! I have no issues with diagonal lines or pulling at the bust or arm.
And it looks good worn out, too...great length.
Saw a centipede on the patio...I do not like them! but if they get in the house I usually just pick them up and put them back outside. Gosh, I'm nice.
How about those cargo jeans? Will blog them soon, I have another pair in a fun floral. Ah, summertime.
Ciao! Coco
A lovely blouse! Thanks for explaining your changes so clearly and helpfully, too. You are nice to the centipede:) I can't say we are that kind to invaders around here.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Angela! Bugs...centipedes are so weird! But at least they curl up when they're touched and cooperate with being tossed out the door! Like big versions of pill bugs. We had a lot of those when I was a little girl, used to play with them :-)
DeleteYou're not retired! You're a seamstress working from home! Awsome job and the summery top!
ReplyDeleteGood way to look at it! Thanks!
DeleteLove your top. What pattern did you use for your pants? I love them.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Clare! The pants are McCalls 6291, with a plain hem. I love this pattern! Have used it for pants and shorts.
DeleteSo cute and summery! Love the pants, too. Great pattern.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Carole!
DeleteWhat a great top! I've never heard of this pattern co. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteBTW - what's your fix for the shallow upper chest?
Thanks, Kathy! For the chest - if it's just a little gaping, say 1/2" or less, I just tilt the top of the pattern off-center when I place it on the fold so the neckline is taken up a bit. If it's more, I put on the garment and pinch out the fabric out to the side of the neckline center, to figure out small darts. Kind of have to determine the best place for this so that no pulling appears at the armhole or bust. Next step is to transfer the darts to the pattern tissue, slice the darts out, tape the tissue closed, and redraw the pattern with the new neckline. This works for gaping back necklines as well!
DeleteThat's really cute! I had never heard of this company until I saw your review, great find. This is so perfect for those sheer voiles that I can never find patterns for.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Becki! This would be great in voile! I agree - so many pretty voile prints, so few ways to use them!
DeleteWhat an interesting top! Love the pants too.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Beverly!
DeleteCute top...I love the pleats. A centipede was inside a couple weeks ago. I wasn't so nice...he got flushed.
ReplyDeleteI'm not nice to ants at all. No flushing, just crushing!
DeleteSo funny because I'd just commented on a mmm14 make of your very same shirt right before visiting your blog! Love your shirt! Looks great and really like the changes you made. Thank you for explaining more about the shirt. Those are cute pants too!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Lisa! I was so happy to find this pattern. The pleats across the front make sheer fabrics so do-able with just a cami! And it's so easy to do.
DeleteThat's a lovely top - thanks for pointing it out. And yes, you are nice!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Ruth!
DeleteThat's a lovely top - wouldn't it be lovely in a soft filmy silk? Pants are gorgeous too. And I would do just the same with a centipede and do with the creepy crawlies I have here :)
ReplyDeleteIt would be beautiful in a silk. Any kind of silk :-) Or a chiffon with a slip-like lining. It's so comfortable to wear. I have to say my bug tolerance is selective - some just get euthanized right away, you know, the nasty ones!
Deletenice top and I like the elbow sleeves too
ReplyDeleteThanks, Silver!
Deleteoooh! nice!
ReplyDeleteI really need to make a couple of these to wear to work...
Thank you! Perfect for work, wish I had had this pattern when I was working, I work this style all the time under suits.
DeleteYou would look so awesome in this!
ReplyDeleteWell done on the blouse! Nicely pleated at the front. Hmmm ... I think I can hack this from Grainline's Scout Woven Tee. Also it would be ideal with some semi-sheer fabrics. Thanks for the inspiration!
ReplyDelete