
My caftan is done in a very lightweight polyester seersucker. When I ordered the fabric, I was under the impression it was cotton! hmmm. It turned out to be very sheer. And I am not fond of polyester next to my skin (too warm). But the stripe is lovely oranges, tangerines, and muted browns. So I lined it completely in an ivory cotton lawn - now it feels heavenly!
The lines are very pretty: classic kimono sleeves ending just at the elbow, raised waist drawn under the bust, and a reasonably gathered a-line skirt. The pattern does not have pockets in the skirt, and I did not add them to this version because of the lightness of the seersucker. Future renditions in cotton will have side seam pockets - love pockets!
Because of the difference in the two fabrics (lawn being such a tight weave and more likely to shrink in repeated laundering), I cut my lining pieces with additional 3/8" allowance, all edges, and eased in the difference in sewing.
A surprise and welcome touch in the construction: the back and front bodice and sleeves are cut and sewn as one piece. Wonderful! I did take the time to measure myself and the pattern - waist to waist, front to back, over the shoulder, round the bustline - to reassure myself before cutting my fabrics. My only adjustment was to add 1/4" to the bottom edge of front and back.
I also like the constuction of the drawstring casing. It is formed from the bodice/skirt seam, which is sewn a bit wider than 5/8", trimmed on the bodice side, and turned up, folded and stitched. I am very fond of this approach, as it leaves a smooth inside finish and does not add bulk for the casing.
Caution tall ladies: I am 5'7" and used only the 5/8" hem allowance in the pattern! My caftan touches the floor when I am barefoot, which is what I like. But scary!
And modesty prevailed - I made an alteration to the bodice front. The original pattern has a deep v-neck ending even with the bottom of the bustline. ah. I redrafted the bodice pieces to allow for a 1" (finished) crossover at center front, which still allows for an oo-la-la neckline about 4" above the original :-)
My final adjustment - Nikki, are you writing this down? - was to insert 1/4" elastic in a narrowed waistline casing instead of inserting the drawstring. Seems so simple, and it is so much more comfortable than fiddling around with a drawstring. I attached the drawstring on top of the elastic at center front. The stitching also serves to anchor the elastic at that point (I did a similar anchor at center back, shifting elastic is distracting :-)
You can also see in this picture that I left the sleeve facing unattached. I had to piece the bottom of the sleeve lining, my precious lawn was running out on me...
Now for the Fashion Show...
Fashion Star Episode 1 - Macy's Kimono-Sleeve Maxi Caftan Dress by Nikki Poulos $89
Sold out day 1 in stores! Shown here in woven and knit fabrics.

(from the official NBC site)

And Coco's Loft Maxi Caftan $30 ($17 unlined)!
Ciao! Coco
You are caftan queen! I love this- so stately.
ReplyDeleteOh I love this very, very much! It looks fabulous on you! So happy we can purchase and create our own Fashion Star clothing! I will definitely be purchasing this one!
ReplyDeleteI have this pattern in my stash now and was wondering about the very low front plunge. You made a great alteration to the pattern, I'll have to try it!
ReplyDeleteI believe you left a zero off of your price :)
ReplyDeleteAs much as I loved Nikki's caftan on Fashion Star - your alterations make for a better garment. Nice job!