Butterick 5954 Knit Top - OOP but shouldn't be!

OK, I am in love with this knit tunic pattern. And I had to wait to get it - it's out of print and has been in my wishlist for a long time because OOP patterns are so expensive. Finally, BMV put all their OOP's on sale. And it's mine!

I think all the choices are wonderful - something for every season and time of day. And lots of opportunity for mixing things up.

With a nod to my fellow sewists on Pattern Review, all the lovely versions there really helped me envision what I might do with the pattern. For the most part, I was after a little less fullness in the skirt, particularly in the back. And I wanted to avoid an FBA. But I also wanted to keep the sculpted effect that is so figure-flattering. Sewing notes:

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• I sewed the size Medium (12-14), my usual in the Big 4.
• The fabric is Goldenrod Sew Classic cotton/poly interlock knit from JoAnns.
• I removed acreage from the center back seam and both side seams, from the bottom edge and cured up, to take out a bit of the swing in the skirt.
• And I added a bit at the mid-torso for ease in the bust and waistline.

This is an uncomplicated redraft, because the swing is so apparent on the pattern pieces.

A note on the hemline. It has a lot of curve - it's all curve - so I turned it up 1/2" with Steam-a-Seam. Having the fabric secured, plus the little bit of extra heft from the tape, made topstitching so easy.

Here's my muslin, the sleeveless version, done in a very lightweight rayon/cotton knit. What a fun change from a tank or tee. IMHO the higher neckline and swing in the skirt really add punch to this pattern.

If you look closely, you'll see a PATCH on the skirt back :-) I got the whole thing sewn and found a small hole in the fabric. Made lemonade...decided it's a design feature.

Inside

Outside

I'm so happy with this pattern - I've already cut out 2 more with the sleeves. It's incredibly comfortable, a great length, and I feel pretty in it. 

Other news...

I got turned out of bed at 3:30 this morning to take Darrin and Ashley to the airport! They're half-way across the country by now, sleeping I'm sure. 

I'm writing in company with Kitty Nikita and Kitty Callisto - we have Wimbledon tennis on the tube. Perfect day. Wishing you one as well.

Ciao! Coco

Edited 7/11/2015...it's back in print! Just saw it on BMV.com

McCalls 6074 Flared knit maxi...

A maxi for the Maxi Dress sew-along...aka the seaweed dress.

This ITY knit fabric really does remind me of kelp!

When I saw it on Fabric Mart, it appeared to be more greenish, but it's shades of taupe. Pretty, but once I got it home, I couldn't figure out how to use it. It's a tricky print.

And along came M6074. It's simple, flowy, and flared. Perfect.

This has been reviewed so many time on Pattern Review, and it's mostly well-loved. I was a little unsure of the elastic gathering right under the bust. I'm full-busted and not at all perky...the gathers were a potential fail for me.

But the issue was easily fixed - I left off the gathers. And I really like how the dress looks and fits without them. The pattern doesn't have bust darts, but the lines of the bodice do a wonderful job without them.

A look at my inspiration - this beautiful flared knit maxi from Soft Surroundings, the Pretty Woman Dress.  The flare is so pretty - I've had this pic in my inspiration file for ages.

It's a true tank dress, and has a low back that matches the front.

I prefer back on the McCalls pattern. It's worry-free (no lingerie strap issues) and comfortable for me.

Missed on the back matching...shifty fabric on the cutting board. Oh well.

Sewing notes:

• I sewed size 14, View C. I'll admit I was wary of it being too 'close' through the torso, so I used 1/2" seams on the sides, armhole to hem. It would be easy to make this dress more fitted, as in the Soft Surroundings pic.

• ITY is such a great fabric - but it has a little weight to it and tends to drop quite a bit. Because I'm 5'7", I added 3" to the hemline when I cut out the pattern. Once sewn, I let the dress hang for a few days - and ended up cutting 3" off before I hemmed it.

• The shoulders are fairly wide, to accomodate a 5/8" folded-in finish on the armholes. Which I don't like! I trimmed 3/8" at the top of the armhole, cured down each side. And applied self-fabric binding.

• Easy-peasy V-neck finish! I bound the neckline first, then sewed and finished the center front seam. 

I love the width of the skirt and how it swirls around.

My bags are (almost) packed and ready to go to Ft. Myers this afternoon. Time for my annual kitty-sit while the 'kids' (Ashley and Darrin) are in San Diego for Comic Con. I made them both some new loop bracelets for the trip. I make them for David and Preston as well, in matching sets. David recently asked me for a replacement of the camo color. His fell apart after being worn in the pool for several months.

Have you made these things? It's an addictive activity while listening to the news. And they're fun. I have bands in 12 colors... I said it's addictive. So is buying the bands!

Bye for now, Coco

A couple more summer blouses...

 I'm on a roll.

I've really enjoyed my first version of New Look 6340 - I reach for it all the time. It has such a nice fit, and I like the pockets. Handy for all kinds of little things, including my hands!

So I made another, this one in Michael Miller chain link quilting cotton from Hancock's of Paducah. (It was on sale for $4.99, such a great buy).

I love getting fabric from this store. It is always perfectly cut, each piece is carefully folded and wrapped separately in plastic, and it's just a delight to receive.


Back to the top. To go with, I've sewn another pair of the Vogue 9114 Kathryn Brenne ankle pants, done in white target cloth from JoAnns. These are a little shorter than my red ones at left. And I like this shorter length, kind of funky.

Like they aren't funky enough already with those upside down pockets on the leg.







Next up, another Butterick 6024 pintucked blouse. Light and comfy in Robert Kaufman Calling 4 London lawn (also from Hancock's of Paducah).

My first version has the original long hem in the back...

Butterick 6040 Pintucked Tunic

On this one, I shortened the back by 4.5" at the center, cured out to the sides. It just seems to suit the print fabric better than an exaggerated hem. And it's still long enough to be easy-going. No anxieties about the back view...

I don't want to give the impression that all has gone well in the loft...I've put a couple things in the wadder bin since last week. The biggest disappointment was a dress I planned for the Maxi Dress sew-along. I ordered the pattern, McCalls 7080, sight-unseen. It's new for the summer season. And ordered the fabric just for the pattern as well.

Both were awful. The bodice was so tight around the sleeve, horrible, and the original neckline was up around my earlobes. And the fabric - I swear, I thought it was cotton. Not. It's 100% woven polyester. Feels like the outside of a Pampers pull-up...

To make things even worse, I managed to get part of my finger in with a seam I was trimming with my razor-edged Fiskar scissors. ouch.

So - I'm working now on another dress for the sew-along. This is why I have a stash :-)

Parting shots - the guavas are getting fat and ripening (the ones that Ms. Squirrel and Mr. Anole cannot reach, way out on the skinny tips of the limbs).

Bye for now - Coco

New Look 6381 - Lovely loose knit pants...

 Oh how I love loose clothing...

Especially now that it's so hot outside. No way will I put on jeans at this time of year!

Cute pattern, with lots of options. New Look is such an interesting pattern line. I really dislike the Simplicity web site, but I make myself look at it just to see what's up with New Look.

These pants are right up my alley. Loose - they hide anything that I want to hide, and they are a breeze to sew. I sewed a size 16 in an ITY knit.

This is my first pair of these, and I eeked it out from MOB dress leftovers. Yes, this is the fabric I used for the dress I actually wore at Ashley's wedding in February. I'll get my hands on the wedding photos next week so I can share more.

The pattern actually calls for an attached 1.5" elastic waistband. hmmm. I tried it and did not like it! The seam of the elastic and pants just stuck into my waist and made the pants look funky on the outside.  The waistband is really the only change I made to the pattern. I cut out a casing from a black ITY scrap and sewed it to the pants:

Then serged the joining seam to make it nice and pretty...

After inserting the 1.5" elastic, I used a multi-stitch zig-zag to keep the elastic in place.

So comfortable! And so nice that the elastic doesn't roll or carry on.

There was no pattern matching going on here. I'm lucky I didn't end up with one of the big chrysanthemums in an unfortunate place!

A couple notes on sewing with ITY fabric. I suppose it could be entirely sewn on a serger. But I've found that doing so tends to draw up/curve the seams a bit more than I like - yes, I can and do adjust the differential, but it's not always 100% where I want it. For this and other knits, I use an elastic (lightening bolt) stitch to sew the seam...Nice and flat, no pulling.

And then I serge/cut the seam to finish it.

I love how these pants feel. I could probably to down to my usual size 14, but I don't think it would make a lot of difference. I'm happy with these.

Grainline Scout Tee with a bust dart and sleeves -
Wasabi Kona cotton

About the rest of the pattern - I've done a muslin of the skirt in a fabric I really dislike, just enough to know the skirt's nice. 

And I have plans for it while I'm in Ft. Myers next week... I think I'll try view B in a printed gauze knit.

I'm very busy picking out things to sew while I'm there with the kitties. And getting them cut out before I go. Cutting fabric on the floor with them is not the easiest way to do it! They help me way too much.

Bye for now...Coco

The Maxi Dress Sew-Along...Quatrefoils and lawn

My first dress for the Maxi Dress sew-along, sponsored by That's Sew Amy. It's my version of the BurdaStyle Tiered Maxi Dress, the same pattern and changes that I used for my pink Valentines dress in February -  back when it was cool in Florida, and the mosquitoes stayed in the Everglades.

There will be no more photo shoots in the garden until the weather breaks. We're supposed to have thunderstorms this afternoon, and my fingers are crossed. The temps drop about 15 degrees with a good rain.

I've been living in my pink dress, and it finally occurred to me that I could make another one. I've had 5 yards of this cotton lawn in my stash for months, and I just didn't think about it. I so seldom wear blue. But I love it! Cool and light.

I have one more maxi planned before the sew-along ends in mid-July.The fabric is here and laundered, and the pattern (McCalls 7080) is on its way. It'll be a nice project for my visit with the kitties while Ashley and Darrin are at Comic-Con.

Notes from the garden...

Two days ago a red parakeet visited the birdbath for a drink and a wash. Beautiful, and unusual in my yard. I usually see the parakeets and parrots in the early evening - they fly in flocks to their 'home' trees. No picture...the one I took through the porch screen looks like a screen.

Last week, this giant swallowtail spent 14 hours in the guava tree. He was about 4" across. 

And then there's Mr. Cuban Knight Anole, Jr. He's noticeable and long at about 12" from his nose to tip of his tail, but he's a juvenile - he will reach almost 20" by next year. He's very active in the guava, and fun to watch.

What a show off!

Bye for now, Coco