Sunday, October 30, 2016

BurdaStyle 7184 waterfall cardi...




Well, there's nothing like just jumping in and sewing a muslin with corded velvet knit!

But it was only $1.80/yard - which makes this a $2.50 project :-)

I got the fabric from Fabric Mart two years ago, thinking of a midi-length sweater coat, something kind of boho. But I just couldn't settle on a patten. It has just been decorating my stash ever since. Rather nicely, I must say, since it doesn't wrinkle. It's been rolled, tossed, pulled out and thrown back in, and not a wrinkle in sight.

Finally, I took it out and gave it a real appraisal. I was going sew it or donate it - it was kind of bugging me that I would buy fabric and not use it.

Then I realized that it would make a great waterfall cardi - it's drapey, the color is really pretty, and it's light enough that I'll actually wear it in our winter months.



On to patterns. I made a cascade cardi from the Grainline Lark tee earlier this year, and it has a nice little funky vibe. But I wanted something with raglan sleeves, a higher start to the cascade, and very little else. Picky.

A search on the web turned up a gazillion variations on this style. It's a good thing I like to research patterns...

Finally - BurdaStyle 7184. It has clean lines:



Nice sleeves and cascade:


A clean-finish neckline and front edge:


And bonus pockets for those who can't live without them. It's also designed for knits!

I got the PDF version from SewingPatterns.com, which meant printing it from the sometimes finicky PrintSew site. But I today I found it on BurdaStyle as pattern 08/2011 #117D. Printing from the BurdaStyle site is so easy - wish I'd seen it there first!


Some sewing notes:
  • I sewed size 12, View B, but only after some prodigious flat-measuring on the pattern. I could not find finished garment measurements anywhere, and I was torn between size 10 and size 12. Since I did all that work, I'll share. For reference, I'm 5'7", 36"-31"-42", and have an 11" upper arm.

    Finished garment measurements, in inches:                        10                       12

    Width at bustline, waist, and hip from CF to CF                35 1/4                 37 1/4
    Cascade width at bustline and waist, each side                 9 1/2                   9 1/2
    Upper arm width                                                                13 7/8                 14 3/8
    Sleeve width at hem                                                           8 1/2                    8 7/8
    Back length from top of neckline with 5/8" hem                 32 3/4                  33
  • I used a piece of cotton calico, cut on the bias, for the back neck facing. It adds a lot more stability than a piece of the knit fabric would have done. Also, I lowered it by 3/8" at center back, to remove a slight roll below the neckline.
  • No pockets, because my fabric is just too stretchy for them. Maybe in another version...
  • I used 5/8" seam allowances everywhere. This is one advantage of the PDF I used - it included seam allowances. The version available on BurdaStyle does not.
  • I also used a 5/8" hem, which matches the front edges. The cardi would be a lot shorter with the suggested 1 3/8" hem allowance.
  • One caution: the sleeves might be short on some people. My arms a not long, and I used a scant 1" hem. However - and this is amazing, not often seen - the sleeve has lengthen/shorten lines for both the upper/armscye area and the area below the armscye. 
My flash went off on the next pic - it's not really this shiny or this purply color! But it's the only back view I have. I love the way this lies in the back and across my shoulders, and I think a lot of credit goes to the two-piece sleeve. 




Great cardi, and worn with a new pair of Love Notions Sabrina Slims.


Ciao! Coco

29 comments:

  1. I just want to say that I love your natural colored hair. It looks particularly wonderful with the color of your lovely cardi. We don't usually see you in these warm tones and it really becomes you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Bunny. I've been startled by how much my hair color change effects my color preferences. My home colors - art, accessories, linens, etc. - are predominantly warm colors, always have been, so I guess this was being hidden by my hair dye! And best part - a good reason to sew and replace some things that don't suit me now :-)

      Delete
  2. What a helpful review,Coco.I haven't seen this pattern but ,like you, am drawn to the raglan sleeves and high fall at the front. Must look for it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Sarah. It's a great pattern, not overwhelming, nice balance to the lines. Wearable!

      Delete
  3. Lovely! And I second the comment about your hair.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Catherine! Hope all is well in your busy life, think of you often.

      Delete
  4. This is gorgeous on you and the colour, which is rich and luxurious suits you very well. I think I might have a go at the shorter version of this pattern so thank you for pointing it out on the Burda site. I have a nice lightweight jersey which I don't think would be heavy enough for the long version.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Jenny! The shorter version should be great in lightweight. I've been thinking about what fabric to use in my next one (I never sew one of anything!) and might try a lightweight ponte di roma.

      Delete
  5. Very nice Coco, amazing what you can do with $2.50! The pattern looks like it could be a staple for some cozy winter cardi's.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Theresa. Can you believe that fabric price? I expected the fabric to be flawed or awful - this was just lucky. And yes - I can see myself wearing this pattern as a robe!

      Delete
  6. Really great looking piece and I love your new look!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thanks so much, Diana! the 'new look' has been really energizing - I love my gray hair! Always thought I'd feel old, but instead I feel younger!

      Delete
  7. Agree with the others that this gorgeous cardi really makes your hair color 'pop'! When I let my hair go natural from an auburn brunette, it was so strange to re-program my thinking from 'warms' to 'cools', especially in makeup. Still struggle with that a bit. You look fantastic!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Lisa! I don't usually wear 'brown' so this was a happy surprise. And it's amazing how much a hair color change switches things up. I feel more inclined to use color eye shadows now, which is fun!

      Delete
  8. Coco, this is so lovely! I love it and it is a perfect mix of fabric and pattern!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thanks, Sue. It's fun to wear, much more than I anticipated!

      Delete
  9. Looks like velvet - right on trend.
    And a very warming colour for you. Lovely.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank so much, Ruth. I thought of you and your lovely AC work when I was making this. Would be interesting! And the fabric was fun to sew, something different.

      Delete
  10. This is a great look on you, and I was very interested in the detailed review of this pattern. I love waterfall cardis but it is hard to find one sized correctly for petites.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Mary. I agree - the way the cascade falls makes such a difference. I like this one because the first fold is up higher, and I think it might work better for petites. It also comes with cutting lines for a shorter version. And the extra adjustment lines in the sleeves are interesting...

      Delete
  11. This is really a pretty fabric and works so well on you and the pattern you chose. I luv the surprises from Fabric Mart. I think I'm addicted. But I've never tried the .com you used. hmmm. Your whole ensemble looks fabulous. And the rock star hair.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thanks, Pao! Fabric mart is knee-weakening... And the hair - I'm having way too much fun!

      Delete
  12. Gorgeous cardi! I truly love this color on you, it gives you a real pretty healthy glow! (Like you've been sunning on the beach!). I've never heard of or seen corded velvet and love it! Great work on this cardi for sure!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thank you, Myra! the fabric was a total surprise, I avoided it for so long, and it's perfect for this cardi. The glow...Florida, right?

      Delete
  13. What a lovely, cozy-looking sweater!

    ReplyDelete
  14. This is a really lovely cardigan! I like the waterfall fronts and LOVE the colour on you! I agree that you look fantastic! I'm wondering now if "my" colours are going to change as my hair colour (gradually!) goes natural too?!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Carolyn. I'm blushing...my hair color was an incredibly, unexpectedly good decision! But I love your red hair, always wanted it for myself. So sassy and unique :-)

      Delete
  15. Nisam mogao vjerovati, ponovno sam sretan i financijski stabilan i zahvaljujem Bogu što kreditne tvrtke poput ove još uvijek postoje na ovim prevarama posvuda, savjetujte svima koji trebaju posuditi kredit e-poštom (davidsonalbertloan@gmail.com) nikada ne uspijete i vaš život će se promijeniti kao i moj. Brzo kontaktirajte (davidsonalbertloan@gmail.com) danas i uzmite svoj zajam od njih. Obavezno kontaktirajte DAVIDSON ALBERT LOAN COMPANY za vaš kredit, jer sam uspješno dobio svoj kredit od ove tvrtke bez ikakvog stresa. Posjetite njihovu e-poštu. (davidsonalbertloan@gmail.com) com) nikada te neće iznevjeriti i tvoj život će se promijeniti kao i moj. Brzo kontaktirajte (davidsonalbertloan@gmail.com) danas i uzmite svoj zajam od njih. Obavezno kontaktirajte DAVIDSON ALBERT LOAN COMPANY za vaš kredit, jer sam uspješno dobio svoj kredit od ove tvrtke bez ikakvog stresa. Posjetite njihovu e-poštu. (davidsonalbertloan@gmail.com) com) nikada te neće iznevjeriti i tvoj život će se promijeniti kao i moj. Brzo kontaktirajte (davidsonalbertloan@gmail.com) danas i uzmite svoj zajam od njih. Obavezno kontaktirajte DAVIDSON ALBERT LOAN COMPANY za vaš kredit, jer sam uspješno dobio svoj kredit od ove tvrtke bez ikakvog stresa. Posjetite njihovu e-poštu. (davidsonalbertloan@gmail.com)

    ReplyDelete

I love it that you came by...and thank you for your comments! Coco