Managing Mandy... I ran across some pics of the Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee on Flickr a few days ago and got curious. It's a free download and apparently enjoys some popularity. It also looks very similar to the Grainline Studio Hemlock Tee (also gratis), so I decided to give it a try.
I've only purchased one Tessuti pattern, the Gabby dress, expensive at $10 for the PDF version, and I was surprised by the hand-drawn pattern and poor drafting. I basically redrafted the whole thing and decided not to buy any more of their patterns.
But the Mandy is free - no pain no gain. A look at the line art:
I'm not picking on them, but it's invited. The pattern says the bust width is 58" (148 cm) - after flat measuring 3 times, I come up with 52" at the bustline, drawn through a bust apex at 10.5" down from the shoulder. At the armhole the width is 54". Now, that's a big difference.
My first version was a wipe-out. The boatneck was uncomfortably high, the back and front side edges didn't align well, and I could barely get the sleeve on my arms. But that's the purpose of a muslin.
A couple more pics of my remake of the Mandy, then on to sewing notes:
|Fabric - poly/cotton/lycra from Fabric Mart|
|Aaack - what a smug look! not intended...|
Sewing notes - This is a one-size-fits-all pattern, so I did a little fitting before I drafted my pattern:
- Decreased the bustline width to 46":
- Removed 1" at CB and CF (1/2" at the fold line).
- Removed an additional 4" (1" each side of CF and CB, midway down the shoulder).
- Added 6" to the body length, back and front, using the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern.
- Tweaked the sleeve:
- Removed 2" from the length of the sleeve.
- Added 1/4" to each sleeve side seam. The resulting bicep width is 13".
- On the body, lowered the armscye by 1/4" to fit the new sleeve.
For my second/current version, I redrew the neckline using the scoop neck on the Hemlock tee. Much more comfortable.
I'm super happy with my Mandy!
Right after taking these pics, I wore this outfit to an appointment, styled with a favorite Ora Delphine hobo bag - I'm so prissy...
Bye for now! Coco