Friday, September 18, 2015

Kwik Sew 2895 Denim Jacket - a second look


Levi's jacket from the 80's


Time to revisit a classic pattern, the good old jean jacket. It gets done in many ways, but I really admire the original Levi jacket - all those seams, welt and flap pockets, topstitching, brand buttons, orange/red button holes - what a  great look.

Here's the thing - I doubt that it's possible to make a convincing knockoff of the Levi classic. Maybe I should say it's not practical - it's sewn on industrial machines with fabric that's been treated in special ways, and with thread that we just can't source easily.

Solution? Buy one! I have a couple and love them. But I also like to fool around with sewing one. The leftover lightweight denim I used for my Strides trousers kind of stared at me and said 'jacket'. Time to pull out Kwik Sew 2895...





It's an easy pattern: the pieces fit together well, the instructions are great, and the collar is very cooperative. It has 36 reviews on Pattern Review! and seems a popular choice with sewists of many levels of experience. I sure like it.



It is really hard to photograph this fabric! A few sewing notes:

  • I made a muslin 2 years ago in white denim. And never wore it - it was a little snug on me. For this one, I stayed with the size Medium, but straightened the side seam from armscye to waistband, an increase of about 2" in the waist. The resulting relaxed bodice is much easier to wear.
  • I extended the cuff band to form a button tab. 
  • Because the collar does not have a collar stand, I added facings to the front and back neckline. I just don't like 'fold under and hand stitch' finish that's often suggested for this type of collar - it's messy.
  • And I got out the big snap tool and used antique brass button snaps instead of buttons. 


Fun with the inside, in wasabi green kona cotton. 



Here's that Pres-n-Snap tool, which I ordered from Sailrite a couple years ago. Kind of a splurge, but I love it. Because it's levered, I can close it easily, it's not at all hard to do. The 15 mm snaps are from Pacific Trimmings, a totally fun online store.




A note about denim: it ravels famously, in any weight, and it has a lot of bias stretch, even without any lycra. The first thing I did was to serge the edges on all my pattern pieces and staystitch any curves that might stretch out.

Now, about those britches - these are favorites, made with McCalls' 6291 cargo pants pattern in a tie-dye denim from JoAnns. I've worn this pair a few times on the blog, but I've never mentioned them specifically. The cargo pockets on the legs don't show in this pic, but they are there, no button flap. And the hem is plain, no elastic cuff.

Kirsten Kimono tee with 9" added to the sleeve


These pants are easy to make and easy to wear, with an elastic sewn-on waist that doesn't bunch up a lot. My very first version here...


And it's time for a fresh cup of coffee. I'm headed up to the loft, where I have a pair of purple pants in progress :-) Hope everyone enjoys a nice weekend.

Ciao! Coco

23 comments:

  1. Lydia, you look absolutely fabulous and so healthy! So good to see you sewing and posting. The insides of your jean jacket look as beautiful as the outsides. And the pants caught my eye as well, they are fantastic on you. I never would have guessed they were a cargo pant pattern. That snap setter tool looks so ominous, but really made for beautifully set snaps. You mentioned how easily denim frays and will stretch on the bias. Well. I have a UFO denim shirtdress - stay stitched that neckline first thing - then set it aside - hanging on a hanger for 2 or 3 months. I finally made the collar stand /collar combo this week, and the darn collar is too short for the neckline. I guess that's my punishment for procrastination.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, dear friend. I'm trying! I'm so glad I cut out 5 garments before my surgery, I need to do something besides knit and read! The snap setter is the bomb...As for denim, I'm always wary, great fabric but, boy, it can be picky. You might try tossing all the pieces in the wash and see what happens!

      Delete
  2. Glad you like the KWIK SEW pattern. I'm in love with jean jackets myself so I will have to look for this one. I've just finished the men's version for DH and am currently working on one for the offspring but found the shoulders had to be altered. KWIK SEW men's pattern, or at least this was, was very, very square in the shoulder. Love the blue pants.

    Theresa in Tucson

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I love Kwik Sew, but with any pattern I have to adjust the shoulders. My right is 1/2" lower than the right. And while I sew a 12 or 14, things often need adjustments in the shoulders. In the end, they all fit better than RTW!

      Delete
  3. You always look so cute! Very nice pants and new jacket. Well done!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much, Linda. I just like to have fun :-)

      Delete
  4. That snap setting tool looks like it means business! I think I need one of those. Love the binding on your jacket. Such a fun detail. And the pants are great as well.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Liza Jane. The tool is fantastic, if one can got for the price, it's so worth it. I just can't be hammering snap setters any more!

      Delete
  5. All the components of your outfit look great. As for that snap thingy wow that is an impressive looking tool. I think I need one too as my snaps have a tendency to fall off

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Val. It's a great fantastic tool

      Delete
  6. You look wonderful. This jacket is darling on you and your execution is lovely. I love "secret" Hong Kong seams. They are like a sweet surprise underneath.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Bunny. I'm always looking for ways to step things up a little bit and have a little fun. Since the garments are all mine, I love to take liberties!

      Delete
  7. Very nice jacket! Thanks for the great review, I'm due for a couple new fall casual jackets...maybe I can add this one to my list!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Coco, you are amazing! You sew the coolest stuff and are so very productive. I will be retired in 2-1/2 years and I hope with much more time on my hands I can be as enthusiastic as you are. You truly inspire me to stay forever young! May I ask, how long have you been sewing and who taught you to sew? I really enjoy your blog!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. And you make me feel so good. Thanks so much. I started sewing by hand when I was very little, 8 or so, for my Ginny doll. Then home-economics in junior high and after that, mom let me use her machine. My wedding gift from my first husband (I was 20) was a Singer! And my first book was Vogue's book of sewing. We were graduate-school poor, so I made everything for me, him, and our eventual 2 children. Everything! I love to sew.

      Delete
  9. Love the jacket and interesting tool you have for the snaps. I have two different tools and have good results with both. I think yours may be more versatile. I like the fit of your jacket and looks good with your pants!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Linda. I don't think the tool will do pronged snaps, like on kids clothes, but it's wonderful for ring-snap buttons and grommets.

      Delete
  10. I'm so glad you blog and post your adventures. You inspire me with lots of ideas and fabrics, tools, tips, and photos, and I always eagerly look forward to your next posting. Happy sewing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. And your kind words inspire me :-) Thanks you so very much. I love knowing you're reading and enjoying.

      Delete
  11. Wow, you are looking fantastico!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh,thank you, Mary. I'm feeling pretty good, not very agile yet, poco a poco, but am enjoying sewing the things I cut out pre-surgery. And knitting a great cardigan in a tweedy olive green. And reading. Have gone through 3 books, on my 4th, in 3 weeks. p.s. I put on makeup for these photos. Can you believe it! And took it off right after. Everything on my skin kind of bothers me right now...

      Delete
  12. Hi! I would like much to sew this jeans style jacket Kwik Sew 2895, but I am not able to find the pattern for sale. Do you have any tip where to find it?
    Thanks!
    Best Regards
    Mr Kare

    ReplyDelete

I love it that you came by...and thank you for your comments! Coco