Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Burda 7659 Pleated Dress in summer green




I have been waiting for days for a break in the rain so that I could take
pics of this summer dress! I love the rain, drought is such an awful alternative, rain rain, stay, please... However. Today Mr. Sun came out to play for a bit in between showers, and I was outside in a flash. I was ready! Shoes, belt, camera, action - and what action. So windy I thought I would lose my tripod. I am holding my dress in the back in most of these photos!

Cute dress! Just looks swingy, sassy, summertime fresh. My fabric is a very pretty grass green cotton from ACMoore - it almost smells like cut grass.




Not seen in the drawings, pockets are included in the side seams. The pattern calls for a back zipper, which I did not include. If you are comfortable pulling a dress over your head and wiggling your arms through, you will not need one. The neckline is not the issue - it is the bust area, which has little ease.



I enjoyed sewing this dress. It is by Burda, so instructions are minimal, with no notches or extraneous markings on the tissue. In fact, none, other than grainline, pocket placement, and pleats lines. They did provide very good techniques for sewing and finishing the box pleats - which will make this pattern approachable by a less experienced sewist.
 
 
The curved bodice is lovely, almost a surplice. It and the pleats work together to form-fit the bust. Not mentioned in the instructions, but a good idea - I ease stitched the sewing line on the bodice, then turned and pressed it. This is a tight curve, and I did have to pull up the thread a bit while making the turn.

 
 
I ran out of my main fabric, so I used a piece from Heather Bailey's Pop Garden collection to line the bodice and upper pockets. In the pic you can see my pocket trick: I only mark the upper placement of the pocket on the garment front. Everything else is pin-fitted based on that mark before I start sewing the pockets. As a result my pockets match up when I sew my side seams!

 
 
It is really getting windy here...

 I sewed a size 12 based on Burda sizing. Adjustments I made:
  • Sewed a 1/4" center back seam to adjust for my broad back. 
  • Lowered both shoulders 3/8" to (1) lower the bust apex and (2) manage my hollow chest :-)
  • Did a sloping shoulder adjustment on my right side.
  • Sewed the sideseams at 3/8" beginning at the upper edge for 5 1/2", then 'cured' the seam out to 5/8" at the pocket. 
  • Drafted armhole facings instead of using the suggested folded band facing. The pattern approach would have put 8 layers of fabric at some seams - I could only imagine what that would look like when it was topstitiched!
  


Last alteration - I added 1 1/2" to the hemline. At 5'7", just needed to do it.

Sandals, Jasmin NY

 I moved under the gazebo to do a little styling because I kept taking picture of leaves covering my face in the other part of the yard! But it is still touch and go!  


I enjoyed the fresh air and wind - we had more rain soon after, but it was lovely!

Ciao! Coco  

21 comments:

  1. Greetings from the other side of the world! I've had this pattern in my stash for a while and haven't gotten around to making it. That will be rectified now I've seen your version. Love the material also.

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    1. Hi Valerie and thank you! and where are you? I love blogger friends from all over, so interesting and fun. Glad you like the dress - it is light-hearted and I'm enjoying it!

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    2. I'm in Sydney, Australia. My blog is a www.valeriesownsewingblog.blogspot.com

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  2. This is so pretty in grass green-I like it both belted and not. It is just plain lovely.

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    1. I agree! It was nice to sew, the color is so cheerful.

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  4. Oh, no! It'd so cute and the top has such pretty lines! I'm being sucked back in by Burda! Why, Coco, why!?

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    1. Maybe you and bad Burda are just MTB!

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  5. Hello! I just discovered your blog and I have really enjoyed your lovely creations and also the very helpful hints you are kind enough to include. I've had this pattern for a long time and will now definitely sew it! Without the zipper! With the arm facings! You've reminded me i really need to consider more as I sew and change some of the elements that could be better. Thank you, Coco! Chris

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    1. Chris, thank you so much for your comments and kind words. Hope the pattern works for you and you end up with a dress to love!

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  6. Another lovely creation from you - it looks so flattering and comfy.

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    1. Oh, thank you! I just found your blog today as you were contemplating how to oversew the environment! Wonderful reading.

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  7. Just to cute! I must get this lovely pattern now!

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    1. Yes! I wore mine yesterday, just felt so good!

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  8. This is lovely! It looks great with and without the belt....... and the added length is very appealing giving it a little more gravity.

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    1. OMG..it was that or me and the violin!

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  9. I sewed this pattern, too, and it's probably my favorite dress now! I used a white linen with embroidered navy blue flowers and then added navy piping around the yoke and armholes. I was using a fabric remnant and was short on the length a bit so added a navy linen band around the bottom, too. It looks fabulous and I get complements on it every time I wear it. I, too, eliminated the back zipper. I'm definitely making this one again!

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    1. How wonderful! Sounds so pretty and fresh. I made it again in the same print but marigold - love it. And I read your two posts in your blog. How are your orchard and bees? Sounds so very interesting and ambitious, I hope it goes well.

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  10. Hi Coco,
    I have just found your wonderful blog due to your post on Burda Style. Like Valerie from Sydney, I live down under (Brisbane) and I too have had this pattern in my stash plus fabric and haven't gotten around to making it.Thank-you, you have inspired me to get it all out of my cupboard and to start sewing. I love your fabric and it looks perfect for hot summer weather. Come October, this dress will be very handy for our hot summer days. Also thanks for your tips on making this dress and I will gladly leave the zipper out. I will now sit back and enjoy reading your other posts on your blog.

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    1. Hi Marjorie! thank you - so glad you found me! I just love blog friends and hearing about what it's like to live and sew in other places. Hope you enjoy this pattern and I really look forward to hearing from you. Coco

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I love it that you came by...and thank you for your comments! Coco